As a food critic I find myself having to make the tedious drive into Atlanta (I live in Covington) whenever I want a fabulous meal. Sure, Covington has an Applebee’s, a Longhorn and God knows how many Waffle Houses, but I am talking chef-inspired recipes, food that well, Atlanta is known for.
Than I happened upon a little bistro-style place hidden away in the quaint neighborhood of Clarks Grove in Covington. I had driven by it a few weeks prior and thought “this little joint is jumping” and found myself very curious as to what this “ristorante” was all about. What I found was great Italian food in a great atmosphere. Yes, it is a little off the beaten path, but oh so worth it.
I went with my husband and the first exciting thing we experienced was their beer selection. We both pride ourselves as being connoisseurs of everything barley and hops, but when our bartender showed us the selection of imported and craft beers, surprisingly I had never heard of most of them. I told him the style of brew I was in the mood for and he recommended the perfect fit.
For starters we ordered the Caprese Stack and Gnocchi with Pancetta. The Caprese Stack was crisp and light with layers of farm-fresh tomatoes, baby mozzarella, basil leaves, local asparagus (blanched and chilled) olive oil, Parmesan and balsamic vinegar. The gnocchi dish was quite the opposite…heavy and rich in flavor with thick cubes of crispy pancetta and a sinful Gorgonzola cream sauce. It could quite easily be a meal on it’s own.
Next we had the house Caesar Salad topped with delicious in-house made croutons. For an entree I chose the Pasta Milazzo, filled with everything but the kitchen sink. Bow-tie pasta with Grilled chicken, mushrooms, early peas, caramelized onions and Milazzo’s house cured bacon was perfectly complimented in a Thyme Parmesan cream sauce. Delicious.
I’ve been all over and Milazzos is a gem. Good service and a charming atmosphere with elegantly rustic decor. The food is fresh, much of it organically grown in the owner’s garden, and it is as close to perfectly prepared as mortals can make it…nicely presented and exploding with authentic flavors. They even have gluten-free pasta! This restaurant is a great addition to this small town.
Food Styles: Italian
Price Range: $$ (10-30)
Hours: Tue – Thu: 11:00 am – 9:00 pm / Fri: 11:00 am – 10:00 pm / Sat: 5:00 pm – 10:00 pm
Specialties: Lunch – Dinner – Drinks
General Manager Andrew & Christina Norman